Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required , White

(3 customer reviews)
Operation ModeON-OFF
Current Rating15 Amps
Operating Voltage120 Volts
Contact TypeNormally Closed
Connector TypeScrew
BrandKasa Smart
  • Easy guided install: Neutral wire is required, standard wall plate size. No need to understand complex switch wiring or master vs auxiliary switch configurations, The Kasa app guides you through easy step by step installation. Need 2.4GHz Wi-Fi connection
  • Control from anywhere: Monitor your light status. Turn electronics on and off from anywhere with your smartphone using the Kasa app, whether you are at home, in the office or on vacation
  • Voice control: Enjoy the hands-free convenience of controlling the lights in your home with your voice via Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant, perfect for times when your hands are full or entering a dark room
  • Scheduling: Use timer or countdown schedules to set your smart switch to automatically turn on and off while you’re home or away. Enable ‘away mode’ to randomly switch on and off to trick potential intruders
  • Trusted and reliable: Designed and developed in silicon valley, Kasa is trusted by over 4 million users. UL certified for safety use.
SKU: B01EZV35QU Category:
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Device detailed description

Control your lights, ceiling fans, and other fixtures from anywhere with the HS200. The smart switch replaces any standard light switch, and connects to your home Wi-Fi in no time through the free Kasa app. Kasa also lets you manage connected fixtures with your smartphone or tablet, including setting schedules, timers and countdowns. For added convenience, you can use your voice to control the HS200 when paired with works with Amazon Alexa, Google assistant and Microsoft cortana.Input Voltage: 100 – 120 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 15 A.

Features and specification

Brand Smart devices brand

Integration Supported smart home integration

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Interface Smart device connectivity interface

Manufacturer Smart device manufacturer

Country of Origin


Color Available colors

Material Smart home device material

Voltage (V)

Wattage (W)

Item Package Quantity


Batteries Included?

Batteries Required?

Warranty Description

‎2 years

Product Dimensions

‎1.5 x 3.3 x 5 inches


Switch Style


Mounting Type



Controller Type

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Included Components

‎Smart light switch

Item Weight

Control Method

Operation Mode

Contact Type

Connector Type


Circuit Type

Actuator Type

Contact Material

Number of Positions

Connectivity Protocol

Lower Temperature Rating

Frequently asked question

can it work on two-pole switch as long as the other switch is always on?

Not likely. You can try it and possibly burn it up due to doubling the rated voltage of the switch. A two pole switch may be connected to one or two hots, 110 or 220 volts (120/240). If the 2P switch is connected to two hots, it has 220 volts to it. If the 2 pole switch is connected to the same hot, 110 volts, the… see more Not likely. You can try it and possibly burn it up due to doubling the rated voltage of the switch. A two pole switch may be connected to one or two hots, 110 or 220 volts (120/240). If the 2P switch is connected to two hots, it has 220 volts to it. If the 2 pole switch is connected to the same hot, 110 volts, then this would work well.

Is this also a dimmer?

I am actually looking at the product page for the new TP-Link dimmer H220. This is a DIMMER! Apparently, Amazon mixes the questions and product reviews for all TP-Link products. So finding your answer is about searching. Some responders are talking about 3-way and 4-way setups. The dimmer H220 is only for single-pole setups.

Do we have to use the supplied faceplate ? I'm going to be installing this in a dual gang box with another switch right beside it.

You don't need to use the supplied faceplate. It will fit a standard two-gang faceplace (for the appropriate button size) if you want to install two side-by-side, or next to a standard switch in a two-gang box. I've done this twice now, without trouble (apart from a little fiddling to get the two switches lined up right).

Can this be controlled by Apple Homekit?

No apple homekit, but You can create a shortcut on your iPhone and control it with Siri or from apple native Shortcuts app. You can even add On of Off icons on your iPhone screen to control the switch.

3 reviews for Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required , White


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  • Anonymous

    An Easy way to control multiple devices on a single circuit.

    I made the jump to a ‘Smart Home’ a little over a month ago after Alexa joined our family. After talking to some friends, doing some research and assesing my needs I settled on TP-Link because of the variety of Smart products they offered, no requirements for a Hub, the lower cost and the ability to control everything from one simple app on my Smart phone and Amazon’s Alexa.
    I have not been disappointed. After a very short learning curve, I surprisingly found the installation and set-up of all the TP-Link Smart devices extremely easy and intuitive. I have installed several different Smart devices including three different bulbs (LB-100, 120 & 130) depending on the area, as well as, Smart Switches (HB-200) and Smart Plugs. All of it has installed, programed and worked with few problems.
    The only criticism I have is the Kasa App. I have found it to be a bit bugy at times, but since I use it primarily for programming and setting up new devices and scenes, rather than operationally, it has not been an issue since Alexa handels most of that work. So far, in the six weeks my Smart Home has been in operation I have only had one problem where Alexa and the Kasa app lost communication with most of (but not all) of my TP-Link devices. But after a bit of head scratching I was able to restore communication.
    So here’s a tip to remember: I first tried rebooting the devices by cycling the power breaker, but that didn’t work. Probably due to multiple devices signaling simultaneously and overloading Kasa. But, powering each device down for a few seconds then back up, and testing it before moving on ro the next one worked without a problem.
    I also recommend using a different control application. I only have experience with Amazon Alexa, but it also interfaces with Google Home among others. I have found that controlling scenes from Kasa not to be reluable for some reason, while issuing the scene commands to Alexa works 90% of the time, with repeating the command becoming necessary about 10% of the time. But even with an occasional repeated command being necessary, TP-Link devices respond extremely well through Alexa’s control. Plus Alexa is able to easily ‘group’ multiple devices so you can control areas with a single command, or program macro activities that Alexa can perform with a single command. Capabilities Kasa does not have.
    This is another deficiency of the Kasa app. Without the ability to group devices or run macro routines, it relies on programmed scenes which are very limiting for operational control. So another controlling app like Alexa or Home is essential to the TP-Link Smart Home system.
    For me, because I have Alexa for operational control, both at home and away, these short comings in the Kasa app are non-issues. But if I didnt have this capability I think I would look to a different Hub controlled platform for my Smart Home lighting and device control.
    HS-200 Smart Switch:
    I am a retired electrician, so I found the installation easy. Most DIY homeowners with a basic knowledge of electricity and components should also have few problems with the installation.
    I found this Smart Switch easy to control and the installation is about the same as replacing a standard light switch. But, a big drawback is not have a dimming capability. To me this should be a no-brainer and i cant understand why this featire is lacking. Because that would makevthis a 5 star product.
    So before you procede there are a couple of precautions that should be noted.
    First, you must three wires plus the ground (usually bare or green), and one must be the neutral (usually white) third wire, or the switch simply will not work. This can be an issue in some older homes (and even in some newer ones too).
    The neutral wire is the ‘common’ wire that runs throughout the house and is common to all circuits. It completes the loop in the circuit from the electrical box to the receptacle. The ‘hot’ (or ‘line’) wire (usually black) carries the electrical load for that circuit only (usually 15-20 amps max). And finally, the ‘load’ wire (usually black, red, or it could even be white) completes the hot side of the circuit between the switch and the receptacle. To save time and money some electricians when wiring homes ‘old school’ would complete the light circuit by running the neutral to the light receptacle and then run a 2 conductor (plus ground) to the switch. So even though you may have a white and black wire at the switch, the white wire is not a neutral, but the load wire that that completes the hot circuit when the switch is turned on (closed). So if you don’t have 3 wires, one of them being the white neutral, you are out of luck using a Smart Switch. You can control the light however, by using Smart bulbs and then grouping them in the controling app (like Alexa).
    Another caution is wire management. Standard light switches don’t take up much room, so the original installing electrician had lots of room in the box to stuff extra wire. This is a luxury you don’t have since the Smart Switch is much deeper and takes up most of the box. The new switch also uses leads that are wire nutted to the circuit wires and not terminated on the switch itself. Because of this, it may be necessay to shorten the wires to make room in the box for the extra electronics and wire nuts.
    My advice is to open your intended switch boxes to survey your electrical wiring BEFORE you order the switches, so there are no surprises when it comes time to install.
    One last safety precaution. Be sure to turn off the circuit at the electrical panel (breaker box). Also don’t assume that all switches in a multi-switch box are on the same circuit. It is often the case that multiple circuits are in the box. This is especially true when a switch is controling a plug. So check all wires in the box with a meter to insure nothing is hot.
    Finally, when wire nutting multiple wires it is VERY EASY to leave a wire loose. This can be very dangerous, as loose wires can work themselves free and cause arking and sparking that can damage connected equipment, and worse, start a fire. This is a common cause of electrical fires, and you might not know there is a problem until it’s too late. So to ensure all wire nut connections are tight and secure, tug on each wire at the nut with needle nose pliers. If you can’t pull it loose it should be good to go. Also make sure there are no bare wires poking out of the nuts. The switches use stranded wire so it’s easy to have some stray strands loose outside the nut.
    So that’s about it. The install is pretty easy most of the time, but if you don’t think you’re experienced enough to do the job safely, put this phase of the job in the hands of a professional. It should be an easy job for any professional electrician, and should not be terribly expensive. Consider it cheep insurance!

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  • Anonymous

    Way more stable than Wemo switches

    I have to say these smart switches are way more stable & reliable then my Wemo smart switches. I’ve now swapped out 6 of my 2 year old Wemo smart switches. The Wemo ones worked nicely for about a year but then after that they would randomly be not detected in the Wemo app & with Alexa. I had to always reset the power to them for communication to be restored. After searching around it seems like a lot of people were having same issues with Wemo & random communication losses. So I took a chance & picked up a few of these & man they have been so responsive & rock solid!! I’m now thinking of swapping all my remaining Wemo smart plugs out to this brand. Installation was easy & the app made setup go fast & 1 huge plus is the app’s scheduling process. So much simpler to set up a schedule compared to the Wemo app which has so many steps & the scheduling app is a bit confusing.

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  • Anonymous

    Great Way to Automate Light Fixtures

    I’ve swapped out my front porch light switch with the KASA HS200 to give me flexibility in programing the on/off times. It installed easily. Just wire nut the leads to your existing wiring. I added a neutral pigtail to the neutral wire bundle in the box rather than trying to stuff the device pigtail directly into the nutted bundle with 4 other 14 gauge wires. It connected to the network easily with no fuss. I have other KASA smart outlets and I find the app to be intuitive and easy to use. I’ve had no problems with Wi-Fi drop outs on any of my KASA devices.
    My only complaints would be…. 1) The mounting flanges on the top and bottom of the device are plastic and therefore thicker than those on the standard switch (they are metal) and so it holds the switch out from the box just a bit more than the standard switch sharing this box. Some fussing with the plaster at the edges of the box was able to remedy this. 2) The white color just isn’t a match for the standard white switches and plates. All the other replacement plates and switches (and manual dimmers) from the big box stores always match…..but not this one. It’s too white. Hopefully my wife won’t gripe about it. Overall a good value for the function.

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